Reno

Reno is Nevada’s second city — a mid-size gambling and entertainment city 4 hours from San Francisco and 30 minutes from Lake Tahoe, reinventing itself as an outdoor adventure hub and tech industry satellite. The Reno-Tahoe International Airport is an excellent gateway for the northern Nevada and Lake Tahoe region, and the Truckee River runs right through downtown.

Why Reno Is More Than Its Famous Arch

I will admit that I arrived in Reno the first time with low expectations. I figured it would be Las Vegas with less polish and smaller stakes. I could not have been more wrong. Reno is a genuinely surprising city that has reinvented itself into one of the most livable and interesting small cities in the American West. The famous arch reading “The Biggest Little City in the World” still stands over Virginia Street, but what lies beyond it has changed dramatically.

Nestled in a high desert valley at the base of the Sierra Nevada, Reno sits at an elevation of roughly 4,500 feet. The Truckee River cuts right through the city center, and on a clear day, you can see the snow-capped peaks of the surrounding mountains from nearly any vantage point downtown. That combination of urban energy and immediate access to wilderness is what sets Reno apart.

Downtown and the Riverwalk District

The heart of Reno has undergone a remarkable transformation. The Riverwalk District follows the Truckee River through downtown, offering tree-lined paths, public art installations, and small parks where you can sit and watch kayakers navigate the whitewater course that runs right through the city center. I spent an entire afternoon walking the river path, stopping at cafes and galleries along the way.

The iconic casinos are still here. The Eldorado, Silver Legacy, and Circus Circus anchor the downtown core, and they offer a more relaxed gambling atmosphere than their Las Vegas counterparts. Table minimums are lower, the crowds are thinner, and the vibe is decidedly more laid-back.

The Truckee River Whitewater Park

One of the most unexpected things about Reno is the Truckee River Whitewater Park, a man-made kayaking course built right into the river channel downtown. During spring and early summer, you can watch skilled paddlers navigate Class 2 and 3 rapids while you sip coffee from a riverside bench. It is a perfect example of how Reno has leaned into outdoor recreation as its new identity.

The National Automobile Museum

The National Automobile Museum, also known as The Harrah Collection, is one of the finest car museums in the country. I am not even a particularly devoted car enthusiast, and I was completely captivated. The museum houses over 200 vehicles spanning more than a century of automotive history, displayed in period-appropriate street scenes that bring each era to life.

Highlights include a 1907 Thomas Flyer that won the New York to Paris race, a gold-plated DeLorean, and several one-of-a-kind custom vehicles built by the collection’s founder, casino magnate William Harrah. The museum is well-organized, affordable, and easy to spend two or three hours exploring.

Midtown: Reno’s Creative Core

Midtown Reno is where the city’s creative energy is most visible. This walkable stretch of South Virginia Street is lined with independent restaurants, craft breweries, vintage shops, coffee roasters, and colorful murals. It reminds me of the kind of neighborhood you might find in Portland or Austin, but with a distinctly Nevada flavor.

Craft Breweries and Distilleries

Reno’s craft beer scene has exploded in recent years. The Depot Craft Brewery occupies a converted 1910 railroad depot and serves excellent IPAs in a stunning historic setting. IMBIB Custom Brews lets you design your own beer recipe. Lead Dog Brewing focuses on creative sours and barrel-aged specialties. I worked my way through several of these spots over a couple of evenings, and the quality consistently impressed me.

For spirits, the Ferino Distillery produces small-batch fernet, absinthe, and other Italian-inspired liqueurs in a stylish Midtown tasting room. It is unlike anything I have encountered in other Nevada cities.

Outdoor Recreation

Reno is a legitimate outdoor recreation hub. The city sits within easy reach of world-class skiing, mountain biking, hiking, and climbing. The fact that you can be on a ski slope in under an hour from downtown is remarkable.

Hiking and Biking

The Hunter Creek Trail is my favorite easily accessible hike from Reno. The roughly six-mile round trip leads to a seasonal waterfall tucked into a Sierra canyon, and the trailhead is just minutes from town. For mountain biking, the Peavine Peak trail system offers miles of singletrack with panoramic views of the Truckee Meadows.

Proximity to Lake Tahoe

Lake Tahoe is roughly 45 minutes from downtown Reno, making the city an ideal base camp for exploring the lake. Many visitors find that staying in Reno offers significantly lower hotel rates while still providing quick access to Tahoe’s beaches and ski resorts. I have used this strategy on multiple trips and saved considerably on lodging.

Events and Festivals

Reno hosts some genuinely world-class events. The Great Reno Balloon Race each September fills the dawn sky with over a hundred hot-air balloons and is completely free to attend. Hot August Nights brings tens of thousands of classic car enthusiasts to the city each summer. And of course, Reno serves as the primary gateway city for Burning Man, with the playa located about two hours north in the Black Rock Desert.

Street Vibrations, a massive motorcycle rally, takes over downtown each September. Artown transforms the city into a month-long arts festival every July with hundreds of events, many of them free.

Practical Information

What’s the Best Way to Get Around Reno?

Downtown Reno is very walkable, and Midtown is an easy rideshare trip or a pleasant 20-minute walk from the casino core. The RTC bus system covers the metro area affordably. A rental car is recommended for day trips to Lake Tahoe or the surrounding Sierra.

Where Should I Stay in Reno?

Budget travelers can find casino hotel rooms downtown starting under $40 midweek. The Whitney Peak Hotel is the city’s only non-gaming hotel and offers a modern boutique experience at reasonable rates. Luxury visitors should consider the Peppermill Resort, which features an extensive spa and upscale rooms south of downtown.

Weather

Reno experiences four distinct seasons. Summers are warm and dry with highs in the 90s. Winters bring cold temperatures and occasional snow, though much less than the nearby mountains. Spring and fall are ideal for visiting, with comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds.